Celebrating Paris’ Iconic Chartier Establishments🥖🇫🇷

The story of Boullion Chartier the Parisian restaurant

Back in one’s teenage years, the Wapojif clan would frequent Paris during the summer holidays. This fortnightly trip began in 1998 and ran for several years after.

During that time, we happened upon an iconic Parisian restaurant called Boullion Chartier (or just Chartier). Of which there are three in the city.

We attended the Montparnasse branch (59 boulevard du Montparnasse – 75006 Paris) and have fond memories of the atmosphere and food. Thus, let’s celebrate its continued successes and status.

The Fine Foods and Affordable Prices at Boullion Chartier

“Une Brasserie, un Bistrot, un Bouchon, un simple resto ? Que nenni ! Le Bouillon Chartier incarne un esprit singulier et une histoire, mais surtout un savoir-faire.”

Yes, so there are three of these located at:

  1. Grands Boulevards
  2. Montparnasse
  3. Gare de l’Est

We haven’t dined at the Montparnasse restaurant since 2000, but 25 years later and we remember it clearly. Helped along by videos like this to jog our memory! This one opened its doors in 1903.

Speed of service, and great prices, are something the place prides itself on.

As of 2025, the prices still look good with starters from €1 and main courses from €7. It’s open every day from 11:30am through to midnight—no reservations, just turn up and wait.

Yes, then, it’s a very busy restaurant with waiters everywhere and a compact seating arrangement to get as many people in as possible.

Yes, you have to share tables with strangers. Make of that what you will, but in England that’s considered pretty undesirable by many. Guess it depends on who you end up sitting next to!

In amongst all the organised chaos were the many bustling, proud waiters. All of whom follow Chartier’s tradition of scribbling your order in pen on the disposable paper tablecloth. At the end of the meal, they do on the spot maths and work out what you owed the establishment, then the tablecloth is replaced and the next customer’s odyssey begins.

With 77,000+ followers on its official Instagram, it’s clear the three Chartier still have a lot of interest. Click the below video for a guided tour.

To prove we were there, this is one of those orders from circa 1999.

The writing has faded due to, you know, the passage of time and all that. But we can confirm our “L’addition, s’il vous plaît” was the GRAND TOTAL of 58.60 francs (a meal for four).

  • Old Chartier bill written on tablecloth (1)
  • Old Chartier bill written on tablecloth (2)
  • Old Chartier bill written on tablecloth (3)

What this feature can’t get across is the hustle and bustle of the place.

George Orwell’s joyous Down and Out in Paris and London (1933) remains one of our favourite books and that does a great job of describing the controlled madness of busy French restaurants. As Orwell told it, we now remember those waiters with more reverence.

How, in France, it’s a respected career and the waiters are held in high regard (whereas here in England, it’s viewed as a stop gap career for students and anyone who can’t get a “proper” job—silly as that outlook is).

As that’s what came across at Chartier. Behind the scenes, in the kitchen or in the cellar, we’re it was madness. But the waiters were also there serving away with cool aplomb, remembering masses of orders simultaneously, and remaining totally professional (whilst in a mildly sullen, aloof way).

It was a great dining experience and, if you’re ever in Paris, be sure to check one of them out.

Chartier’s Extensive Parisian History

“Ici règne le style Art Nouveau, vestige de la Belle Époque. En préambule un bar en cuivre, puis une vaste salle à l’arrière, au cachet singulier, surmontée d’une verrière, des meubles d’époque, des tables serrées, aux nappes blanches, où ouvriers et bourgeois se côtoient à la bonne franquette.”

You can see on the official site how Chartier describes its history. The first one opened its doors in 1896 and has prevailed for over 125 years now.

Since 1989 it’s been classes as a monument historique national heritage site for France.

Brothers Frédéric and Camille Chartier were responsible for the first restaurant, setting up shop in a building that looks like a miniaturised train station concourse. Since it opened, it’s only had four different owners! Quite the record.

Its very nature is buried in busy body working class roots, offering budget prices, but good quality, and remaining open 365 days a year. The food style is traditional French cuisine, with all waiters dressed in the traditional French rondin style with apron and waistcoat.

Its reputation was cemented quickly, with French singer Fernandel (1903-1971) even mentioning it in the song Félicie aussi (1939). Here he is singing it in March 1968.

Chartier is not just a restaurant, it’s now also a tourist attraction. Few eateries around the world can claim that, with the likes of Tokyo’s Sukiyabashi Jiro (or Jiro Dreams of Sushi fame) springing to mind.

Bon? Oui. C’est tres bon.

5 comments

  1. I once had “breakfast at Brennan’s” in New Orleans. A truly unforgettable experience ~ and it should be ~ my husband said it was far and away the most expensive breakfast he had ever eaten.

    Liked by 2 people

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